‘Every Cook Ought to Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on Ranking of London’s Top Restaurants.

When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.

Morgan Harper
Morgan Harper

A tech journalist and digital strategist with over a decade of experience covering emerging technologies and their impact on society.